Estimate your range
Use the calculator below for an informed range, then read the sections underneath to understand why your home lands where it does. Any real number requires a sub-slab communication test at the house.
Radon mitigation cost estimator
An informed range, not a quote. A real number requires a sub-slab communication test at the house.
Typical installed range
$1,400 – $2,200
- Includes diagnostics, system installation, sealing, and a manometer.
- Confirm that post-mitigation verification testing is included in any quote.
What you are paying for
| Component | What it covers |
|---|---|
| Diagnostics | Communication testing, foundation survey, system design |
| Suction points | Core drilling, soil excavation, and patching per point |
| Pipe and fittings | Sealed PVC run from suction point to roof termination |
| Radon fan | Continuously rated inline fan sized to the soil resistance |
| Electrical | Dedicated switch or circuit at the fan location |
| Sealing | Slab cracks, floor-wall joint, sump lid, penetrations |
| Manometer and labeling | Ongoing performance indicator and system documentation |
| Verification test | 48-hour post-mitigation measurement and written result |
The factors that actually move the price
1. Sub-slab communication
This is the biggest single driver. If vacuum travels 30 feet through the material under your slab, one suction point can serve the whole house. If it dies out at 8 feet — common over compacted native soil and caliche rather than clean gravel — you need more points, and each one adds labor, pipe, and patching.
2. Foundation type
- Slab-on-grade: usually the simplest and least expensive.
- Basement: similar to slab, with more interior routing options.
- Crawlspace: adds a sealed membrane across the entire soil floor, which is material plus labor-intensive work in tight clearance.
- Mixed foundations: an addition on a different foundation often needs its own suction point tied into the same fan.
3. Pipe routing
Exterior routing is faster and cheaper. Interior routing through a closet or chase looks better and keeps the pipe out of the sun, but takes longer and may involve drywall repair. Neither performs better; it is an aesthetics and access decision.
4. Fan sizing
Tight soils need a high-static-pressure fan; permeable soils need a high-airflow, low-pressure fan. Choosing wrong either wastes electricity and makes noise, or fails to lower the level.
5. Access and electrical
A two-story home with no attic access above the intended fan location, or a home with no available circuit near the fan, adds real hours. So does a crawlspace you have to crawl 40 feet into.
Related costs to plan for
| Item | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Initial short-term test | A small fraction of mitigation cost; sometimes credited |
| Post-mitigation verification | Often bundled with installation — confirm it is included |
| Fan replacement | Fan plus a short labor visit, typically every 8–12 years |
| Electricity | Roughly 40–90 watts running continuously |
| Retesting every 2 years | Low; the cheapest insurance in the whole system |
How to compare quotes fairly
- 1Ask whether a sub-slab communication test was performed before the number was given.
- 2Confirm the number of suction points and where they will go.
- 3Confirm the fan model and where it will be mounted — never inside living space.
- 4Confirm the exhaust terminates above the roofline and away from windows.
- 5Confirm post-mitigation verification testing is included in writing.
- 6Ask what happens if the post-test is still above 4.0 pCi/L.
Common questions
Generally no. Radon mitigation is treated as a home improvement rather than sudden damage. Some local or state programs periodically offer assistance — ask us what is currently available.
Related services
Compare your options
- Passive vs Active Radon SystemsA passive system relies on natural airflow. An active system adds a fan. The distinction determines whether your home is reliably protected or only sometimes.
- Radon Fan Replacement vs a New SystemIf the design was right and only the fan died, replacement is a short visit. If the system never brought the house under 4.0 pCi/L, a new fan will not fix it.